COUCHSURFING- Santiago

Jasmin and I on "Da Couch"

Let's discuss Couchsurfing shall we?
When most people hear the word couchsurfing they are usually slapped with a not-so-fond image of a unemployed, lazy, dirty friend that stayed on their couch for what seemed like an eternity. "Dude, get a place already!!"
 That is not what the Couchsurfing I speak of is all about. Couchsurfing, best described on their website, https://www.couchsurfing.org/ is a community of travelers from around the globe that connect online to share experiences, hospitality, languages, adventures, and their couches and/or spare bedrooms.
I've couchsurfed several times in various countries but this was Aesha's first experience with the concept.                       First, we needed to make a profile. The profile is not unlike a FaceBook profile. You want to be honest, intriguing, and interesting to others. You can go to the Couchsurfing website and search Aesha Shapiro to find our profile if you are interested. Next, the lingo. There are two types of couchsurfsers: hosts and surfers. We needed to find the perfect host. It is a tiresome process reading hundreds of profiles and trying to find the best match for us as well as for the host. Hosts get reviewed by their surfers and can not remove a review, regardless if it is positive or negative. Also, hosts have the option to "up" their profile by paying a fee to get verified. Verification is not mandatory but I would never choose to stay with someone who is not verified. Verification consists of several background checks and it the safest way to ensure your host is honest and does not have ulterior motives...or felonies.
Why couchsurf??
Couchsurfing is not about a free place to stay. Yes, it is awesome to not have to pay for a hostel, but if you are surfing just for a free place to lay your head, you are missing out on what Couchsurfing is all about. It is an wonderful way to experience local cultures as well as meet new people, try new foods, share travel stories, and to get the inside scoop of the area.

Our experience

View from the apartment

We are the luckiest surfers on the globe. We simply could not be happier with our gracious hosts Javier and  David. We spent hours upon hours reading profiles before we selected these guys. They had tons and tons of marvelous reviews and not a single bad one. They are both engineers, world travelers, excellent English speakers, unbelievable cooks, and they genuinely love opening their home to fellow travelers. They are magnificent...and they even love Dubstep!! (For those of you who don't know, it's a type of gnarly electronic music.haha) I simply can not say enough fantastic things about these guys and their genuine passion for hospitality, but I'm sure going to try...

The Surf

Sunset from our room

If you have been following the blog you know about Jasmin, our adopted new best friend. If you haven't been following ..well shame on you. I kid, I kid. Jasmin is a kick ass chic from Germany and she has quickly become one of our favorite people. She only had one more night left on her trip and we dragged her to Santiago with us. She was completely ready to get a hostel but when David picked us up from the train station he insisted she stay with them as well. Awesome. That means the "Three Musketeers" would stay together. Brilliant.

Middle Eastern food...Chilean Style

 Their place is remarkable. Open layout with a sensational view of Santiago. Aesha and I were set up with our own private room and bathroom and Jasmin now gets the neon green couch, right next to Kendra. Kendra needs her own section so keep reading and you will find out all about her.
     We arrived in Santiago with ferocious appetites and these guys knew it. I love to try new and exciting foods and they hooked us up with what Javier calls "ethnic middle eastern food...Chilean style". I've never heard of such a thing but I rolled with it. Freaking unbelievable!!!!!

The Sheesha (Hookah)...and her name is Kendra
I've smoked hookah before when I was in Cairo, Egypt, but none as beautiful as Kendra. I don't smoke cigarettes. Never have, never will, but there is just something so enticing about Sheesha. It's smoked with flavored tobacco and it's actually an ingenious social tool. It brings people together and requires them to connect with one another. In a world that is dominated by electronic devices and mass media it was nice to stop and actually interact for a while. Not to mention, for a non-smoker, the buzz is incredible.

"Kendra"

Our first night was full of chistes (jokes), sheesha, phenomenal food, wine and music videos. Yup you heard me right. These guys certainly like their music videos. Exhaustion crept up on me and I surrendered early. The girls could be heard in cheerful spirits for hours.
     Jasmin had to leave the next day so we gave her a crash course on Santiago as we had already spent five days there. Our day was jam-packed and we tried to show her all of the hot spots that we knew of as well as follow Javiers itinerary. Somehow we ended up at this "Cafe" of sorts. It was a compilation of Senoras whipping up greasy food for tourists and locals alike. These broads sure know how to cook a Completo! I went out on a limb and ordered a Churrasco, not knowing what it was but hoping it was delicious. Oh ...it was...Was I actually a vegetarian for 21 years?????

Churrasco

Tres chicas locas

We cruised the city for hours, getting lost several times. We ventured back to the mall (of course), drank strange street drinks made with wheat, sipped our daily vino allowance, and had a blast doing all of it! Adios Jasmin!!! We miss your beautiful spirit already!
     It won't be long before we see Jasmin again. You see, she has invited both Aesha and myself to Oktoberfest in Germany this year. We will be there!!!! Ahhhhh yeah!

Yeah, that's right. I made this, and I'm a bad ass.

The Pasta
These guys sure know how to cook. The first night we gorged ourselves on homemade pasta. It was smothered in a delectable broccoli and garlic puree and was unlike anything that I have ever tasted. Delicious!!!! Thanks for all of the ambrosial food guys!!!!! The night before our departure David even baked us homemade chocolate chip cookies. Are you kidding me?

Attention all other couchsurfing hosts... you better step up your game if you want a chance to compete with these guys!!!

Second evening feast of sauteed chicken with a butter cream sauce and spiced rice

All good things must come to an end

 We want to thank our hosts David and Javier for their knowledge, laughter, hospitality, Kendra, "Chilean Reserve" Malbec, delightful intellect, mouth watering comida, insight to Santiago, music selection and videos, and most of all... introducing us to the "Game of Honor". A game which we will undoubtedly teach to others around the globe. One word. Hilarious.

You guys rock. Keep doing exactly what you are doing. You have made friends for life and are welcome in our homes anytime. Thanks again!!!!!- Love The Savvy Nomads

VALPARAISO, CHILE..."The jewel of the pacific"

    

   ”Valparaíso es un montón, un racimo de casas locas.” (Valparaíso is a 

heap, a bunch of crazy houses.)

- Pablo Neruda

 Valparaiso ranks as one of Chile's most valuable seaports and is a cultural cornucopia of artists, musicians and performers. It's a genuine feast for the eyes. Its distinctive history combined with its unique architecture has allowed it to be deemed as a UNESCO World Heritage Cite. Precioso!!! We were lucky enough to visit this stunning city during the Festival de las Artes, which is a festival dedicated to the arts, culture, and global sustainability.  The city was transformed right before our eyes!! We simply could not have chosen a better time to be in this enchanting place. The city entices you with its charm, dazzles you with its magic, and relaxes you with its sweet song. I simply can not say enough about Valparaiso  I love love loved it!!!!

Interactive Art focusing on the importance of recycling

    Only a short bus ride from Viña del Mar, we arrived in Valparaiso relaxed and ready to explore. Our hostel was perfect! A much needed reprieve from the utter chaos of the beaches. Hostel Jacaranda is run by a very lovely couple and we felt immediately at home upon entering. We stayed in a dorm that was supposed to be mixed but lucked out because it ended up being all girls. Yay for us!!

Valpo by boat...amazing!!!

Enter Jasmin...
You know when you meet someone and there is that instant connection, things just click? Impossible to describe? That's how both Aesha and I felt about meeting Jasmin "Jazz hands" from Germany. Jasmin arrived in Valparaiso the same day as us and she was travelling alone, until she met us. Once we met her we decided that we were going to adopt her and she did not leave our side until the day she left to go back home to Germany. We miss you Jazz hands! What an amazing five days the three of us had together!

Aesha, myself and Jasmin on "Daddy"

 Time to explore... The most outstanding phenomenon of this city is the plethora of graffiti art. It's everywhere. Almost every inch is boldly painted with wildly eccentric graffiti. It's magnificent. Excitement ran through our blood as we turned each corner, anticipating the next masterpiece. The winding streets are dotted with local art studios, cafes, handicraft markets, and more unique little trinket shops than I have ever seen. This city is full of amazing artists, craftspeople and musicians alike.

 Funicular lift to the panoramic viewpoint

Valparaiso boasts fifteen antiquated funicular lifts. They are archaic and actually date back to the 1800's, but they are also a great way to avoid exercise, and let's face it...who really likes to exercise??  We would much rather sit and sip vino as we discuss our daily shopping conquests.

Vino time at our favorite hotspot. The view is perfecto!!!!!

The vino...
All three of us love wine, so we decided that everyday around sunset we should get a bottle of Sauvingnon Blanc, sip it slowly as we digest our afternoon, and allow our palates to be teased by the flavor of crisp apples, pears and grapefruit. Shopping with a wine buzz..look out!!

Denise Quijada and a very happy Samantha!!!

The shopping...

And a very happy Aesha!

If I had a million dollars... OK, I don't, but I sure did shop my face off here. Every time I travel abroad I purchase a special piece of artwork. My personal collection of art is expansive and I am more than proud to say that my newest piece came from an incredible female artist from Valparaiso. Her name is Denise Quijada and I fell in love with her work immediately. I knew that I must have this painting as soon as I walked into her studio. Aesha became immediately attached to another one of her pieces. A deal was struck and all of us were ecstatic ! Now Aesha and I each own a one of a kind piece of artwork from the same artist. It reflects the beauty of our trip and will forever remain in our hearts and minds that we share this special connection and remind us of our spectacular trip to Valparaiso together.

You got it Jasmin!!!!

The Hooping...
What would a day in the park be without Aesha teaching someone how to hoop? Ocne again, we drew a curious entourage of onlookers as Aesha taught Jasmin how to: stand straight, use her muscles, and hoop her little but off. All of this was done in the coolest park on earth. It doesn't have a name but it is completely constructed of mosaic hearts. Mosaic art is one of my favorite forms of art, and hearts...well anyone who knows me knows how much I love hearts!!!!! So much that I'm contemplating getting two mosaic heart tattoos on my wrists. Feel free to discuss this in the comment section at the end of this blog. I would love some feedback.

The girls...right before we found a myserious package that smelled like a skunk. Weird.

Six piece rocking band!!!!!

The Festival de las Artes-
The city was alive and buzzing with excitement. The first night we headed to the plaza to watch the Cuban musician and Latin Grammy nominee Aldo Lopez Gavilan perform. We met a very sweet Chilean couple who took us to a local hot spot where we continued to watch and listen to outstanding live music until the wee hours of the morning. The music was eclectic, original and completely enchanted me. I did not want to leave!
I was completely enamored with this band. So much so that I purchased their CD. Awesome times!!! Check out this video. http://youtu.be/I6xo6TblpjU

Girls night out!

One of the remarkable things about this festival is that it is completely free. At anytime throughout the day you can witness live performances by musicians, poets, and artists... and at night, we headed to the theater.We selected an outdoor theatrical performance to entertain us the second evening. It was an Cirque de Soleil like interpretive dance piece that blew our minds. The show was a creative interpretation of the epic "Altazar", written by the Chilean poet Vincete Huidbro.  This poem has been deemed "untranslatable" which made this performance extraordinary. Fire dancers, aerial contortionists in silk, lyra, and acrobatics occupied the sky while the narrator, an extremely large birdlike creature transformed the stage into a world of passion, hatred, love and new beginnings. It was completely in Spanish, and I loved every second.

Altazar performance

Aerial performer!!

Basically...we loved Valparaiso. From the graffitti art, local artesan shopping to the music, vino and theater...We will be back, oh yes, we will be back.
I enjoyed the street art so much I feel the need to share some of my farites with you...enjoy!
-The Savvy Nomad

Bad girl Aesha!!!

Yup...thats my artist!!!

Hola!!!

Creepy!!!

San Pedro de Atacama (La Isla Bonita...yes, it sounds like a Madonna song if you sing it the way we do..."it all seems like yesterday, not far away"..., San Pedro de Atacama...)

All that makes you wild and free...San Pedro de Atacama

     I'm on one hell of a whirlwind of a journey, life is being thrown at me from every direction. My senses are constantly being teased, tantalized and even tortured; my body taken to places it has not otherwise known existed. Adventure seeks me out, finds me, and throws a sequence of complex creature like abstractions at me. I try to decipher them but quickly realize that I am indeed lost, confused and wanting to leave San Pedro... 
 So I did.

Wouldn't you want to leave if this guy kept making bird sounds with a leaf?

    





That was my experience in this wild, weird, and demented desert town. Aesha, on the other hand was having a wee bit more fun, so for the first time in the history of the universe, two friends split up while traveling. Wow, what an insane idea. I'm super impressed that we came up with such an original concept. Aesha wanted to enjoy a few days more in San Pedro and I surmised that Santiago had been calling my name for way to long. Hasta Luego Aesha Rosa Tigresa...see you in a few days. 
 I thought I was ready for some alone time, but what I wanted and what I  received were two completely different  situations!

One quick travel "do" and "don't"... if you will : 

Do take time for yourself once in a while. 

Don't do it the evening you have a 24 hour bus ride to a city you have never been to, in a country whose language you barely speak. 

Not as fun as it seems...

 Aesha hurry back, Por favor! I can barely order my lunch without you!!!!!

All joking aside, the bus ride to Santiago was tortuous without anyone to talk to, the battery on my phone was dead (so no music), and I had just finished my last book. Talk about some serious time for self reflection. Gross. I was completely debilitated from  having multiple conversations with myself that by the time I reached the hostel in Santiago I almost screamed at the first person English speaking soul that I met, and wow, did I get Lucky!!!

It just so happened that this very kind gentleman named Ari, owns the hostel i was at. He could tell that I was out of sorts and offered me something special. He said "I don't usually do this, but I own some high-end condos across the street, and there is a pool". Before he could say anything else I was running to get my bathing suit!!!! Ari unlocked the door to the pool for me and said...just relax and lock the door whenever you decide to leave. Wow, I already love Chilean hospitality, yet there was so much more to come in the days and weeks ahead...

View from our "Pimp Palace"

Santiago Backpackers " Ari's place" www.santiagobackpackers.com/ is a dynamite little hostel. It has a homey feel, the staff are energetic and fun, and the place is spotless. Other than one ferociously insane evening when a wildly intoxicated Korean girl tried to steal Aesha's bed and almost left with her suitcase, it was one of our favorite hostels to date. But wait, there's more... The third night they accidentally overbooked the hostel. They gave away our beds!!! It was an oversight and was beginning to look like a grim situation for these Savvy Nomads when...Bam!!!!! Since, well, I had a new-found friendship with the owner I called him over to discuss the issue at hand. He replied with a smirk "I'm so sorry about this Samantha, we will just have to put you girls up in the condo across the street. Will that be o.k with you?" Hahahahahahahhah!!! The one with the rooftop pool?? Yup, that'll be just fine.  

     The place was PIMP!!!!!! It was a two bedroom modern palace with a kitchen, bathtub with HOT water (I have never in my life enjoyed a bath more than I did that night), and a 180° view of Santiago. We couldn't contain ourselves upon entering. We were squealing and jumping up and down and squealing some more and jumping and ...OK, you get it. We were stoked out of our minds. This type of thing doesn't happen, but it did. Hot water, oh my.

Mine

Side note...
I must briefly talk about the food in Chile for a moment. It sucks. Plain and simple. If you are on a meager backpacker budget such as ourselves, you eat "completos"...ans a ton of them. A completo is nothing more than a jazzed up hot dog, and by jazzed up I mean covered in mayonnaise, sauerkraut, ketsup, mustard and guacamole. Disgusting yes.. Making me look disgusting yes. Delicious??? Why, yes.

     Aesha and I get into the habit of not eating until its too late and we are hangry. 

Hers

           She is Gluten intolerant and can not have wheat...which means, no bread for her! We were cruising the gargantuan mall one steamy Santiago afternoon and realized that we were hangry. We approached the food court with apprehension then realized that they had completo place. Now, mind you, two healthy girls such as ourselves would never, ever consider eating hot dogs at a mall in America, but when in Chile....do as the Chileans do...eat mayonnaise drenched hot dogs. That, my friends is not where the story ends though. She ordered her completo "sin pan" which means without bread. You would have thought she pulled a gun on them or something. The wide eyed hot dog lady shreiked at Aesha in Spanish "EN SERIO!!!!!!!!??", which means SERIOUSLY!!!??? They couldn't seem to get it together. The place was crumbling before our very eyes. It took five sweaty cooks, two idiotic cashiers and a apathetic manager to finally grasp the concept that someone would actually order one of these slimy things without a bun...and she ordered two. What happened next made us laugh so hard we nearly pissed ourselves...for real. Uncontrollable laughter and just sheer madness. This is what they served her. EN SERIO!!!!!  Nuff said.  

Our day at The French Barber Shop and Restaurant. Fabulous.

Haircut anyone???

 Santiago is a classy city with a raging nightlife scene. It actually reminds me a lot of Chicago. The sun doesn't set here until 9:30 pm so people go out for dinner and drinks around midnight. This took some getting used to but eventually I got the hang of it. The city is beautiful, very cosmopolitan and is wrapped in an ornate coat of history. There are tons of cafes, shops, and plenty to see and do. Mostly we spent our days strolling through city parks and neighborhoods, sipping on espresso (I made a coffee drinker out of her), and enjoying the scenery. People watching quickly became our favorite pastime and we would just sit for hours and hours discussing the unique clothing choices of Chileans. It's quite a different style than what we commonly see at home, and we found it to be ultimately amusing, hilarious actually.
After a few pleasant days of sightseeing we were ready to head to the beach. VAMOS A LA PLAYA!!!!!

Viña del Mar
 We arrived in Viña by bus. It's only an hour and a half from Santiago and the drive was gorgeous. We've been dying to get to the beach. As excited as we were, we were not that impressed when we arrived. It's outrageously overpriced, the nightlife is comprable to spring break in the states (we are a tad bit old for that nonsense), and the beaches were not as admirable as we had hoped.

Renaca Beach

 However, Aesha hooped on the beach and attracted quite the coterie of onlookers . I'm deemed her "hoopsistant " and as a team we sure do know how to entice the crowd. Aesha being the star of course!!! We stayed two days and headed to Valparasio....one of the coolest cities I have ever had the pleasure of visiting. Ciao for now!!!- The Savvy Nomad