“Our battered suitcases were piled on the sidewalk again; we had longer ways to go. But no matter, the road is life." - Jack Kerouac


Monday, January 14, 2013

"THE WORLDS MOST DANGEROUS ROAD" El Camino de la Muerte!! 
La Paz to Corioco, Bolivia
SHEER MADNESS!!!!!

  I can´t sleep. I toss and turn as intrusive images lure me into an ambush of lucid dreams. Avalanches, landslides, plunging off cliffs to my eminent death, being mauled by pumas as well as a variety of other horrid scenarios occupy my brain.. I need to sleep. Tomorrow is a huge day. Tomorrow I will race (ok..ride) a mountain bike 40 miles down the Andes Mountains in Bolivia reaching speeds of up to 45 miles an hour. This road is deemed the most dangerous road in the world and I´m going to bike down it? What the hell is wrong with me??? I turn over to see Aesha in her bed wide awake staring at me. It´s 2.30 am. We just look at each other with a knowing glance...are we freaking crazy???
I'm not scurrrrred.
BESTIES :)
We are still awake when the alarm sounds. Something about the idiocy of this ride actually petrified me. Maybe it´s the the 1900 ft staight cliff drop offs, or the fact that it is a single lane road and at most places no wider than 10 ft across. Maybe it´s the fact that I will be on a mountain bike in the Amazon jungle. Maybe I just want that damn t-shirt they give you if you finish..you know the one that says " I survived The Death Road" Who knows...all I know is it certainly got my blood pumping, and for that...I thank you Death Road!!!!!
Uno, dos, tres...SALTAR!!!!
             We arrived at Madness Bike Adventure in the wee hours of  the morning. The adrenaline rush that starts to take over you body before you are about to voluntarily experience something that may considerably alter your life is an intense feeling. We watched the videos…we knew what to expect yet somehow we were incapable of saying no. I will admit, perhaps I  influenced Aesha quite a bit, but she conquered those 40 miles like a champ!! I know she would have regretted it if she decided to stay home and visit more lame ass ruins…hahahah
Lil ol' bridge
  Our guide Octavio was fluent in both Spanish and English, so we completely understood him when he made us sign the waivers (no fault), just in case something happened. He promised us it was very safe and that we had nothing to worry about!! I have gotten so used to the rain that when the sun was out that day and the crisp breeze tickled my nose, I had a moment with myself…this is going to be an amazing experience, and amazing it was!!! Absolutely one of the most unforgettable experiences I have ever had in my entire life. Scary…hell yes….fun as shit…you bet!!!!
     After a brief safety demonstration and the fitting of our gloves, helmets and the ever-so-sexy rain pants we were on our way up the mountain. Our minivan inched its way up to 15,000 ft and as we twisted and turned every corner all I could think of is the fact that we needed to get down this mountain…on a bike.
We arrived at the top where the actual Yungus “Death Road” begins and Octavio requested we check out our brakes…Really? Wow, thanks…I certainly hope that they work at this point!
Yes..that's the road

     I sized up my competition. I felt as if I  had an advantage over the girls but the guys were just so much bigger than I and they would undoubtedly be able to gain more momentum and speed than me. This doesn’t mean I didn’t try my damnest to kick their butts down that mountain, but alas, the sheer magnitude of their body mass, compared with their choice to almost never use their brakes, made them take the lead over me. It’s ok…as Octavio repeatedly said “this is NOT a competition” hahaha yeah right…do you know who you are talking to???
 The first 20 miles of the road is on asphalt and it’s not closed to through traffic. This part scared the bejesus out of us, but the need for speed won me over and I was Ralampago on that bike!!! The lower you crouch, the faster you go….it was stupid fun.
Love you Mom and Dad!!!

The landscape was a scene out of a Lord of the Rings movie. Sweeping snow capped mountains and gorgeous lush valleys and meandering rivers below. Karst formations meeting beautiful red and pink sandstone. Perrinkle skies dazzling with dreamy white clouds that seemed to be smiling down at us. I was expecting a rainbow and a leprechaun at some point but they never showed.
     It was quite chilly at 15,000 ft but as we speedily descended, we were able to shed layers. The Death Road is unique in the sense that it joins the Andes mountains with the Amazon Rain forest. The vegetation was lush and tropical and boasts many different types of flowers including my favorite…orchids.
The second half of the journey is where the road gets it’s  famous “most dangerous road” status. Sharp, hairpin turns, 2000 ft drops, only a few feet to wrangle your bike, cascading waterfalls (on your head), streams flowing directly over the road, which is made from rocks and gravel,, not to mention the seemingly never-ending mass rock wall. To my left all I see is the mountains behind and the valley soooo far below. On my right I am met with a rock wall ascending 1000’s of feet, covered with jungle vines and wild orchids…and in front of me….well it's difficult to say because there are so many 90 degree turns I was never sure what was going to meet me around each corner. It was completely breathtaking (not sure if it was the elevation or the fact I was holding my breath half of the time) and there were times when I just stopped (my brakes did work!!) and just took it all in. 

      I cried at one point because it  just felt so good to be alive and able to experience the world in this capacity. I felt one with nature. The adrenaline was replaced with appreciation. A deep appreciation for nature and the sheer elegance and natural beauty of my surroundings. I still really loved the speed though…  

Light as a feather...
   Our guide was actually so impressed with me he seriously offered me a job as a guide. Hmmmmmm a tour guide in Bolivia….ummm I’m going to have to pass as most of you know how I feel about my experiences here in Bolivia. Now if we were in Thailand or Hawaii perhaps…who knows!!!!
     The trip down  the mountain took 4 hours to complete because we stopped at a spectacular waterfall to have lunch, take photos, and breathe...
     This is a MUST do if you ever come to Bolivia and has been one of the best experiences I have ever had whilst traveling. It’s not for the faint at heart but if you know how to ride a bike and are not afraid of heights , altitude sickness, getting hit by cars or boulders ,falling off of cliffs, or just plain fainting…this is for you…Sheer Madness!!!!

Aesha the "Fierce" Badass!!!
A nice little surprise...After the ride we were taken to a posh hotel in Corioco for a fabulous buffet lunch and were allowed plenty time to swim in the pool. Pool??? It’s been so rainy and gross the past month we were shocked (and nervous to have to be in a bathing suit) yet overjoyed. The backdrop was gorgeous and we stuffed our faces and swam and sipped on crisp cold brews. It was a perfect ending to a perfectly insane day. I would do it again in a heartbeat.

Pool and beers!! Great times!!!!


Me at el Camino de la Muerte
To my Mother:
 I want to let you know Mom, that I wont be doing this again, so don’t worry!!!This whole blog was a trick Mom, you see...this is all I really did that day!!!!I love you! (see right)
Next blog....later today.. a 3 day jeep trip across the Largest Salt Flats in the world, the Salar de Uyuni. It shall be another epic part of this amazing journey on this road called life. Stay tuned and thank you for reading!
-The Savvy Nomad

5 comments:

  1. I am so glad it was a trick,,,if I thought you actually had done that crazy madness bike ride, I do believe I would have to get on a plane and drag your ass back home!!

    I have to say your writing as always is truly amazing and I was there ..I think I even threw up in my mouth it was so real...love you sweetie!! xoxoxo

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  2. Sam, You are a beautiful and fearless inspiration! I knew you were an adventure seeker but reading and following your blog has shown me how incredible and deep your love for life is and I am so happy I know you!!! There have been so many times over the past few months when I was about to text you for something silly or to ask your opinion or I just needed to share something with you, ahhh I miss you! I love following your crazy adventure and I LOVE seeing your pics! The blog is amazing and I can't wait to hear about what you girls do next! Glad you are safe xo. I came across this quote today and thought of you. Love you, Julia
    "Life is either a daring adventure or nothing."
    Helen Keller

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  3. You are some brave chickas!!!! I would have been scared shitless as everything you explained is my ultimate fear! Can't wait for the next blog. love my girls!!

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