Bebe Llamas...wait no!!! Those are lambs!!..Locas Gringas!

Cusco and The Inca Trail

December 17- 26, 2012

     Wow… It’s been an incredible couple of weeks and so much has happened it’s hard to know where to begin. I guess at the beginning is a good start, right??Please try to pay attention, this will be a long one …
     It has been a dream of mine to hike the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu in Peru. It’s on my bucket list and it the single reason why I even began to plan a trip to South America in the first place. Upon many tireless hours of research I decided that I was going to make the trip to Peru and tackle the treacherous Inca Trail. When I called Aesha to tell her about my trip all she said was "I’m in, it’s on my bucket list!!” I was ecstatic to have someone who shares the same passion for travel and culture as I do to be joining me on this journey.
    The Inca Trail is a UNESCO World Heritage site and it is monitored like Fort Knox. They are insanely strict on the amount of hikers aloud in per day. 500. No more are allowed, ever.  Knowing this I booked the trek more than 4 months in advance to make sure we would not encounter any problems with reserving spots. I wanted to make sure that we would be on the hike for the “End of the world” on December 21, 2012.
    After Huacachina, Aesha and I took a 16 hour bus ride to the charming city of Cusco. Cusco’s altitude is 11,200 ft above sea level and many people experience severe altitude sickness at this level. We were prepared except we didn’t think about the winding, twisting, stomach dropping bus ride through the mountains. We were both sick as dogs and couldn’t wait to get off that damn bus. We finally arrived at Loki Hostel in Cusco. Loki is a party hostel and we didn’t realize the severity of this until we walked into our 8 person dorm to 6 screaming, hysterical young girls. Holy shit…what have we done?? We felt like grannies. It was horrific, especially when we were in bed reading and they were spraying six different types of perfumes and yelling at us to come to the bar and drink “blood bombs” (don’t ask) with them because there are “cute” boys down there…oh brother. All I have to say is thank God for ear plugs!!!!!

View from our Hostel

 We checked in with the travel agency at Loki to confirm our Inca Trail reservation for the next day. He said "Yes, Samantha Scholl and Cynthia Scholl right?" Ummmm What??? "No, Samantha Scholl and Aesha Shapiro, Cynthia Scholl is my mother and was listed as my emergency contact!!" This is where the complete and utter downward spiral begins. A tornado of emotions that will be difficult to describe but here goes…
     Percy, our very handsome travel agent (right Aesha?hahaha), looked genuinely terrified as he realized the pernicious and irreversible mistake that was made on their part. Basically, they screwed up…big time and were shitting their pants about it. They accidentally listed my mother as the other hiker, but with Aesha’s passport number. It seemed like an honest enough mistake but the security at the gates along the Inca Trail would never accept this, but Loki travel was about to do everything in their power to make it happen. Ivan, the manager was called over and he explained that this is a major problem but he felt confident that we should still be allowed in with a little persuasion on his part. So we rented all of our gear, packed up our bags, and tried to get to sleep early…we had a 5:30 am start in the morning…We were hiking the Inca Trail!!!

Lunch on the balcony overlooking the Plaza De Armas

 Neither one of us could sleep, the anticipation and excitement was tying knots in our stomachs.
    Up early, we load a bus with the porters (guys who cook and set up our campsites). They reeked of alcohol and Coca Tea. I was nauseous already, shit, this was going to be a long three hour bus ride. Oh believe me, it was. But we didn’t care, we were about to conquer the Inca Trail!!!!…Nope, no we weren’t.
We finally arrive at the gate and as everyone else passes our friend Ivan goes to speak with the officials on our behalf. He has with him all of my confirmation emails, proving that the mistake was completely his fault and that we should be aloud to pass. It’s not looking good. I get a shiver down my spine that reverberates through my entire body. It’s not going to happen. We waited at the gate to the Inca Trail for 6 hours before they finally told us no, no way can you pass. Ivan had the look of fear in his eyes as he approached us and told us not only won’t we be going on the trip, the trail is booked up until January 6, 2013, and there is nothing we can do.

Our first attempt at the Inca Trail...not so successful! 12/17/12

  It took a moment, but as soon as we digested this news we both became catatonic. We just spent thousands of dollars to fly to Peru to hike the Inca trail and now we can’t do it. We were beyond consolable at this point. We then then had to get on a local bus and head back to Cusco. The disappointment we were both feeling ran incredibly deep and was so upsetting I couldn’t even be angry...I was spiritless. It took a lot of courage for both of us to plan this trek. It was an intense battle of the mind and when we finally got ourselves mentally prepared, our dream was shattered.
    We arrived back in Cusco at 6:30 pm, 13 hours after we left that morning. We were exhausted, soaking wet, starving and depressed. They bought us dinner and a bottle of Vino (a sorry attempt to calm us down...don't they know alcohol is a depressant) and took care our nights at the hostel, but something was different. They could of just apologized and offered us our money back but they didn’t. They knew how much it meant to us to go on this trek, they apologized of course but wanted to make it right. They realized it wasn’t about the money, this trip was  important to us on another level and they knew it.

Unbelievable Horse trek!!!!

Sol, Super and Wiena

Aesha and I visiting a local home for snacks and jugo!!

 They offered us a private horseback riding trip through the mountains and valleys of Cusco the following day. This actually ended up being one of the highlights of our trip thus far. I was encouraged to gallop my horse " Sol" as fast as he felt like galloping...which was fabulously electric!!!
     They calmly asked us to be patient as they tried to speak with the government. We had a few days to spare so we let them treat us and hoped for the best. We were both trying our best to remain patient and positive. It took five days, several trips to the government offices, and a letter written on our behalf to the head official, the only one in the country who can make the decision to allow more than 500 people on the Inca Trail in one day…so on Friday, December 21, 2012 (the supposed “end of the world”), 502 people were allowed on the trail. It's pretty damn cool to be the extra 2!!

Team Bananas Locas!!!!!
Aesha, Romulo, Silvia, Ricardo, Zac, Jing, Me, Abeed, Alex, Miguel, Lei, Swen, Sandra, and the coughing Aussies

 INCA TRAIL...For real...

 Here is where the real fun begins!!! No joke, enough whining and bitching on our part!!! We simply could not have been luckier with the group we went on the trek with. Everything happens for a reason... verdad? 

Day one, early morning mist

I met some of most amazing, hysterical, genuine and fun loving people I have ever encountered while traveling...all except for the hacking, coughing, disgusting Aussie girls who got wasted a few nights before and got Llama tattoos, but that's an entirely different story. Entonces...

Lei's photo of Swen...amazing

     So we began the dreaded three hour journey back to the Inca Trail once again, only this time we knew it was the real deal. We were not without our fair share of problems...Aesha woke up with food poisoning. Yup, the kind that makes you feel like you may shit your pants while vomiting...Poor thing. I honestly didn't know what to say or do to help her feel better. She was a trooper though!!                  There was nothing going to stop us from completing this journey...not even sub zero nights, rain for 4 days and nights straight, thousands upon thousands of stairs, climbing mountains, then having to descend the steep slippery stairs, tons of mud, bed bugs in our sleeping bags, rain in our tent, no toilet paper, no showers or hot water, the hacking, coughing Aussies, the altitude that took your breath away every 3 or 4 minutes, and oh, did I mention the stairs?

I hate stairs!!!!

  The first day of the hike was fairly simple. We were hiking for only about 6 hours or so. The altitude really begins to get to you but the scenery more than makes up for it. This is what we have been waiting for! Our guides Gorge and Daniel were exemplary and absolutely hilarious; they made they long days easier to stomach with their wit and detailed descriptions of our surroundings and the Incan history. 
          When we finally arrived at camp it was all about getting to know one another. There were fifteen of us in all, coming from all parts of the world: Switzerland, Taiwan, Ukrania (haha Abeed), UK, Holland, Costa Rica, Brazil, USA, Australia, and Mars (Zac). We made for a lively bunch and as soon as Ricardo, I will refer to him as "Banana" from this point on (see right) started infecting all of us with his contagious laugh, I knew this was going to be a priceless trip.  

Brazilian Banana!! Nice rain jacket!

Gorge our guide

We were famished...whats for dinner??? Say what?? A three course meal compliments of the porters? At that point you probably could have put a pile of poop in front of me and I would have eaten it. Well, maybe not poop, but you get the point... I did not expect that level of service while on the hike and the food was actually delicious, albeit I'm not exactly sure what kind of meat I was eating.They sure do love their Guinea Pig (Cuy) meat here.

Day 1: Km. 82 to Huayllabamba
Altitude at Start: 8528 ft.             
Elevation: +400m (1312 ft.)
                                  Altitude at End :9840 ft.
                                  Distance: 12 km
                                  Approximate Time taken: 6 hours Awww yeah!!! 

Team Bananas Locas at our first dinner together

Our tents were set up, we has a fantastic view of the snow-capped mountains, my belly was full and my eyes sleepy. You can see why the Incas were so fascinated by the stars in the mysterious sky. It just has a way of touching your soul.
It was time for a good nights' rest. Day 2 is said to be extremely difficult and by far the most challenging day of the trek.

I was mentally prepared to hike the 45 kilometers in 4 days, but could my body handle the stress? I'm no spring chicken anymore, and I've never hiked under the conditions of this altitude. Ay Dios Mio!!! What a day we had in store for us!!!!!

Porters

Day 2: Huayllabamba to Pacamayo
Altitude at Start: 9840 ft.
Altitude at End : 11,480 ft.
Elevation: +1200m (3936 ft.) to Dead Woman's Pass. Then -700m (2296 ft.) to Pacamayo campsite
Distance: 11 km
Approximate Time taken: 7:30 hours....ouch!!!!
One would actually have to hike the the Inca Trail to discover how freaking cumbersome the second day truly is. Words cannot describe the agony each and every one of us experienced as we huffed and puffed our way straight up the mountain to the appropriately called "Dead Woman's Pass". The freezing rain was whipping my already chapped face and as I finally reached to top I realized I still had to descend...almost 3,000 ft. In the pouring rain, down treacherous stairs. My hands were numb, my clothes completely drenched. Sshhhh, don't tell anyone but I think I cried a little when I finally made it to the campsite.

Jingle Bells, Sandra, Alex, Aesha, Banana and Abeed. Day 3

Day 3: Pacamayo to Huinay Huayna
Altitude at Start: 11,480 ft.
Altitude at End : 8692 ft.
Elevation: +400m (1312 ft.) to Second Pass. Then -400m (1312 ft.) down to Concha Marca. Then +150m (492 ft.) to Third Pass. Then -1000m (3280 ft.) down to Huinay Huayna.
Distance: 16 km
Approximate Time taken: 8-10 hours depending on your downward skills....I took 10.

Jingle and Aesha

                                                       

Team Bananas Locas really began to come out of our peels (pun intended) on the third day. Aesha somehow ended up with 5 esposos (husbands),

Aesha and her esposos

 Jingle Bells and Alex started an Inca Tail inspired love affair, Swen and Lei's sexcapades could be heard by all, even those of us with ear plugs, Sandra attempted card tricks, Miguel was giving us all sugar highs from his dulce (sweets) collection, Silvias "home made" banana rain shoes were the talk of the town, Banana wouldn't stop singing Loca... Loquina, Abeed became the "master of all things awkward", Zac continued to talk shit about all things American (don't worry Zac, we still love you), Jingle exclaimed to the hacking tattooed Aussies "you actually paid for those?", I learned to eat warm corn syrup (and kinda liked it), and we all pretty much had the time of our lives. We really became a team. When you spend 24 hours a day with strangers in the middle of the mountains in Peru, you really get to know one another...and who snores, and who doesn't. I won't mention any names...

One of my favorite places on the hike

                                            We used laughter to combat all of our ailments and our ability to make any situation funny even got us ssshhhhed by other hikers. Jealous bastards :)

Day 4
Machu Picchu
It poured rain the entire night and into the mid morning of our last day. The sky literally opened up for over 7 hours. Our porters came to wake us on that last and final day; my body was stiff as a board and my sleeping bag was soaked. So much for water proof tents. As I glimpsed out side I saw my hiking shoes where I left them, but the tent flap had been left open and was lain on top of the tent exposing my shoes to the elements. It took me a moment to realize what had happened. My loving, wonderful dear friend Aesha forgot to zip the outer tent (I forgive you Aesha!!) I literally had to dump the water from my shoes...they are in fact waterproof and did not let any of the water seep out. It was freezing, everything I owned was soaking wet and infested with bed bugs, my knees felt as if someone was repeatedly taking a sledgehammer to them, and now I have to put on soaking wet hiking books and hike 3 hours. Someone shoot me now. Wait a minute!!!! Isn't this my dream??? I signed up for this!! Somehow I was able to rejoice in the fact that I was about to arrive at Machu Picchu and my spirits started soaring. Who cares about anything else...I'm about to get to Machu Picchu!!!

The Sun Gate right before entering Machu Picchu

 WE MADE IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It was worth everything!!!!!!!!!!!!!! What an amazing journey! I wouldn't take any of it back, well maybe the bed bugs, but it was the most ultimate experience ever!! I thank each and everyone of the guides, porters, Loki travel, Aesha and my new friends for contributing to such an epic journey. This hike changed my life. Simply said...absolutely brilliant.

So, Aesha is a Hooper, as in Hula Hooper, as we all know by now and it was her dream to hoop at Machu Picchu. We waited the entire afternoon to take advantage of the perfect  moment and when we did...it was AMAZING!!! I took a video and photos of her and right as she was about to really get going we heard the whistles. Oh snap!!! We were in trouble and knew it. The security was running towards us and we just froze. He was screaming and trying to rip the hoop out of her hands but our gentle voices and oh-so sweet faces must have won him over because all he did was kick us out. Yup folks, this spectacular journey ends with us getting kicked out of Machu Picchu. Well played Locas Bananas, well played.

Moments before getting our butts kicked out

Thanks to Loki Travel. They really went above and beyond with fixing their mistake and making sure we had a trip of a lifetime. Also a very special thanks to Aesha for allowing me to use ALL of her photos from the trip. Unfortunately with all of the excitement of the day, I seemed to have left my camera at the restaurant after the hike. I'm not going to lie, I was devastated. Over 250 photos and videos are gone forever, not to mention my beautiful camera. At least I will always have the magnificent memories that I made here, all of my new friends, and one helluva a wild story to tell.

Christmas Dinner in Cusco

     The next day was Christmas since most of Team Locas Bananas was going to be in Cusco we decided to all have Christmas dinner together. It was an entire evening packed with inside jokes, picking on poor Zac and eating, drinking, and dancing our faces off. We had a blast and I hope you all had a very Merry Christmas as well!!!! Thanks for hanging in there, I know this was a long one...off to Bolivia!!!!!
Love, The Savvy Nomad (who lost her damn camera...not so Savvy eh??)